Tagged with spread the stoke

I Surf Because…

I Surf Because…

Why do you surf?  “For the freedom and for the thrill.  Just being out there, and being in nature.” “To stay grounded.  And I’ve been doing it for so long, I can’t imagine not surfing.  It’s everything to me.” “It’s how I get my meditation.” “It’s really fun, it’s good exercise, it’s really addicting, and … Continue reading

A Search for Stoke

A Search for Stoke

I myself have taught more people to surf (that scene from “Forgetting Sarah Marshall” comes to mind) than I can count. There’s something special in seeing the person’s joy when they first stand up. But, my project is not ultimately about a person’s love of surfing. It’s about chasing a stoke-like feeling, happiness basically, and I believe the most powerful form of this comes through human connection. Continue reading