Why do you surf? “For the freedom and for the thrill. Just being out there, and being in nature.” “To stay grounded. And I’ve been doing it for so long, I can’t imagine not surfing. It’s everything to me.” “It’s how I get my meditation.” “It’s really fun, it’s good exercise, it’s really addicting, and … Continue reading
I myself have taught more people to surf (that scene from “Forgetting Sarah Marshall” comes to mind) than I can count. There’s something special in seeing the person’s joy when they first stand up. But, my project is not ultimately about a person’s love of surfing. It’s about chasing a stoke-like feeling, happiness basically, and I believe the most powerful form of this comes through human connection. Continue reading
