I Surf Because…

Buying my new board at Hansen’s

Why do you surf? 

“For the freedom and for the thrill.  Just being out there, and being in nature.”

“To stay grounded.  And I’ve been doing it for so long, I can’t imagine not surfing.  It’s everything to me.”

“It’s how I get my meditation.”

“It’s really fun, it’s good exercise, it’s really addicting, and you just can’t get enough of it once you start.”

“I surf because it’s a form of relaxation I can’t find anywhere else.  I surf because it’s challenging, mentally and physically.  I surf because I’m always learning something new and exciting I wanna tell all my friends about, haha.”

My new LB! I haven’t had a new one since high school. Stoked!

“Because it’s awesome.”

“I surf to both find myself and get away from myself. Surfing centers me. It lets me forget about the negative and focus in the positives in my life. It brings be back to reality.”

“It’s a joy to surf and it feels good.  When you are not so young, you just enjoy it.  You relax.”

“It gives me an excuse to walk around half naked and barefoot.”

“I surf because I was born into it and my Dad was a surfer.  And once I learned, it became an everyday part of life.”

That’s a goat, P.S.

“My Dad got me into it because he was always going surfing and he wanted us to learn how to surf.”

“I surf because it keeps my life at an even keel, without it, I would tip into oblivion.” – Andy Irons

Writings on the wall at Swami’s Cafe

“I just love being in the ocean.  It’s like my therapy.”

“Because it is fun and I get to do it with my friends and family.  I am stoked!”

“I’ve done it my whole life and I really enjoy surfing.  I’ve always done it, all my friends do it.”

“Mainly just because it’s fun and I love the water.”

“I surf because being in the water is my form of meditation, it’s a work out, and a fun/free activity for me to do with my friends.”

“When I’m out there I forget about my meth addiction, mortgage, and my son that hates me.  When I’m out there, I’m free you know?  It’s just me, my board, and Mother Nature.”

“I surf mostly as a getaway from busy life.  A chance to be active, mess around with friends, and have some fun.”

“I surf because I’m addicted.”

Stoke is ___________. 


“Stoke is knowing that you will see your best friends for the first time in months and know that it will be like you never left. Stoke is 3 feet of fresh powder and no life lines. Stoke is enjoying the ride.”

“Doing what you like.”

“Having a really good day surfing to the point where you could not surf for a month and it would be fine.”

“It’s the endorphin rush, a good feeling you get after a session.”

“I don’t really know… I come from Spain.  Stoke?  What is stoke?  What means stoke?”

“It’s a feeling of happiness that overwhelms your body when you are having fun with your friends surfing.  Or, you get a really good wave and everything works out.  After that, you’re just stoked.”

“Just having a really good time.  Sometimes it’s with your friends, sometimes you’re alone, but I love it when we’re out there, and we’re all catching a bunch of waves and just having a really good time.”

“Having fun, catching waves, and enjoying life.”


“Unrestricted joy.”

“Awesome, fun.”

“The feeling you get after surfing an epic wave and you paddle back out with a huge smile, just stoked for the next one because it could be even better than the last.”

“A feeling of extreme excitement!!!  Pumped for what’s to come.”

“Stoke is coming home and realizing my roommates have cleaned the house for once.”

“Stoke is happiness!”

“Coming home and seeing my dog after a shitty day.  Seeing that smiling face, he’s oblivious to the world.”

Thanks to everyone who let me interview them while they were awkwardly getting out of or into their wetsuits/sent me their answers!

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